Have fun and stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson
Category: Uncategorized
Ticks. Thick with Ticks.
What a blast. We had great weather, by which I mean sun, rain and fog. And we had…great balls of tickage. I’ve never seen so many ticks. We picked maybe 30 off our clothes (that we saw) and three or four out of our bodies (those that we found, as of now) and discerned three different varieties including the infamous “crawling spec of dirt,” also known as the deer tick.
For Pete’s sake. Talk about a dampener on your fun. Give me rain or wind or mud, any day. Hoping I don’t catch something from the little cesspools of disease.
Now I have to clean and sterilize all my clothes, camping gear and shoes and boots and panniers. I’m wondering if I don’t have to pick over the bikes as well. What a mess. (But what good clean fun we otherwise had.)
I Recommend to others who plan to go out this year:
– Permethrin for treating your clothes.
– Deet
Learn more about ticks. There may be ads on this page for tick resources and there are also some pages here, at the University of Rhode Island TickEncounter Resource Center.
Insect and tick-repelling clothing.
Stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson
Needless to say, I avoid it when I can, but it’s the shortest route to The Park. A bad road is unpleasant on a standard frame bike, but with an SF, you can post (raise yourself off the seat). On a bent, you can’t. So, every few days, I’m reminded of what I like about fully-suspended recumbents or — if I’m riding an unsuspended bent — what I might have done to make this stretch more comfy.
Here are a few tips for smoothing out your own local worst road.
1. Full-suspension. If you’re shopping anew, consider full-suspension recumbent bikes or trikes. If you know you’ll be on bad roads, there’s no replacing the safety and comfort of keeping all wheels — whether two or three — in contact with the road at all times.
2. Steel is real. Favor steel recumbents over (non-suspended) aluminum bents. While a steel frame can’t absorb potholes, it does have a marvelous capacity to absorb road vibration and this goes a long way towards improving control on bad roads.
3. Fat tires, baby. Speaking personally, 1.5″-wide tires are my minimum for city tires and I like them at low pressure. My favorite? Schwalbe Big Apples. These are “balloon” tires. They’re relatively light, flat resistant, grippy, have low rolling resistance, can run as low as 35 psi, and provide “built in” shock absorption.
4. Big tires, baby. 26″ wheels roll over the rough stuff better than 20″ wheels. I realize that means we’re talking about high-racers and there are reasons why high racers are sub-optimal in the city, but there’s no getting around the benefit of big wheels. If you decide to look at this solution, check out a Cruzbike Sofrider or Cruzbike Quest: big wheels without the typical high-racer’s seat slope.
5. Sling mesh seats. While I love hard-shell seats for climbing hills, a sling mesh seat is comfort factorial on bad roads.
Would I put it all together? Say, a fully-suspended HP Velotechnik Street Machine Gte or Scorpion fs, with Big Apple tires and an Ergo Mesh seat? Or a dual-suspension Cruzbike Sofrider with 26×2.15″ Big Apples? Yeah, I’d consider it. At some point it may become overkill, but I’m not sure we’ve yet reached that point.
Stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson

Beating men and women alike, Maria completed 474.5 miles in the 24-hour non-drafting race, shattering the previous course record of 442.6 miles. (For those who are reading this blog entry at some time in the future, this was in the 2012 race.)
Jim Parker writes:
Maria “…finished the 24-hour non-drafting race with an amazing 474.5 miles, beating all the men, too. Timothy Woudenberg had the second best finish on his NoCom and was the only other recumbent rider among the top nine finishers, the other seven all being men riding DF bikes. She surpassed Sandy Earl’s course record of 442.6 miles by a whopping 31.9 miles.”
http://cruzbike.com/results-bike-sebring
That Maria Parker is an amazing athlete. And that Cruzbike is one incredible machine.
Stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson
Bronnie Ware, an Australian nurse, spent several years working in palliative care, caring for patients in the last 12 weeks of their lives. She recorded their dying epiphanies in a blog called Inspiration and Chai. The blog garnered a great deal of attention and it led her to write a book called The Top Five Regrets of the Dying.
What might my own regrets be?
It’s entirely possible that I’ll regret never having written a book (that
wasn’t a work-for-hire). I might also regret it if I don’t travel to a
few places. I think Germany would be one of those places, maybe the
countryside of France, and maybe Norway.
I might also regret it if I never bicycle across NY State or something
like that.
I think I’d also regret it if I don’t manage to live and die in love.
The following article relates the story.
By Susie Steiner in The Guardian (guardian.co.uk)
Stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson
Get fit in 20 New York Minutes
February 15, 2012
How 1-Minute Intervals Can Improve Your Health
By GRETCHEN REYNOLDS
http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/02/15/how-1-minute-intervals-can-improve-our-health/
Stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson
Cruzbike continued
Day 1:__0:45 (hr:min) (mastered the basics)
Day 2:__1:00 (hr:min) (ready to ride on road)
Day 3:__2:00 (hr:min) (Improving technique. Working on: figure-8s, tight and open loops, S-turns, increasing speed, climbing, handling uneven surfaces and dirt.)
Day 4:__1:00 (hr:min) (Improving technique. Working on: S-turns, increasing speed, climbing, handling, sprinting, getting a workout.)
Report
Yesterday, I put aside work to squeeze in another hour on the new Cruzbike Sofrider demo bike. I was looking to get in a workout and also continue improving my handling skills on this frame, which handles like nothing I’ve ridden in the past.
There were two unexpected experiences. First of all, even though I began to feel comfortable on my last time out, after four hours on the bike, this time, I wasn’t able to just get on, give it a kick and ride off. Like last time, the first 10 minutes were spent reacquainting myself with the pedaling and handling: I sat down, pushed hard on the pedals, and immediately pulled myself off-balance. Darn it. After a few minutes of persistence, recalling what I learned the last time, and soon I was riding up and down the bike path in front of my building, getting more comfortable before heading out into the street and off to Prospect Park.
I found a few tricks for reminding my muscles how to ride the bike:
1) Riding one handed, not two-handed, with a loose grip, reminds my body about what it needs to do. I could feel the handlebars pulling and pushing against that one hand, reminding me of the rhythm I needed to adapt.
2) Decide whether I’m going to let the handlebars pull against my fingers, or press against my palms; choose one or the other when I start so my body/mind is ready to respond.
3) Have active hands on the bars, but a light touch. Open my palms so the bars can press (or pull) as I pedal.
4) Pedal softly.
I was looking simply to get a workout yesterday. I had intentionally skipped my morning U.S. Masters Swimming practice so I needed the workout. Once in the park, though, I decided to keep working on handling skills again, instead of strength. This is because, given my current skill level, I simply can’t apply full strength. With only modest effort, my speed goes high enough that it butts up against my handling skills. I could see that my legs were going to get very little work until I could steer through the speed. For those who don’t know it, I will mention that the Prospect Park loop is also constantly rolling hills with one fast down and one hard up, and one flat section of about .75 miles.
Some aspects of handling remained easy — the figure 8s and loops, the starts and stops, the sharp turns are basically no problem. What I found challenging though was maintaining good control on S-turns — slaloming — at speed. I was using a drill that I always give beginning bent riders when I’m teaching them to ride. For the first few repeats, you begin with shallow S-turns at moderate speed. You’re seeking to understand how to use your body weight and handlebars to control the bike in combination with the forces generated by speed. In the drill, you gradually increase the slalom curves from low-speed shallow turns to low-speed deep turns, and, as you feel comfortable, you continue on to fast and shallow and fast and deep (the hardest to control, this is not for novices). I’m looking here for very precise control, where the bike ends up exactly where I want it, as if I’m steering around a 90-degree turn in traffic. This exercise is maybe more critical for the urban rider than the country rider.
The drill is a good skills test. How precisely can I control the mass of bike and rider? As I got faster, I started to see the limits of my ability: I could not be precise in my higher speed, deep turns. I’d find the bike suddenly over-turning. Was the weight of the bottom bracket pulling over the wheel? How do I control that? I found myself needing to concentrate constantly. Other riders may find as I did, that this is a very different experience to riding something like an HP Velotechnik Street Machine Gte or a Volae Century, which nearly drive themselves from the beginning; you just relax the upper body and pedal. On the Cruzbike, I was finding my upper body needed to be much more engaged. Well, of course, I said to myself. I had already found that this is precisely what provides the speed advantage when applying force: the whole body is involved and not just the legs.
There was something on my mind as I was working on my drills, adding a feeling of urgency. (Urgency may not be the optimal state of mind for learning new skills, by the way.) Earlier that day, while reviewing a NY adventure race calendar, I got the idea for using a Cruzbike Sofrider in the April 1 “Fool’s Rogaine” adventure race, if my skills were up to it. (The Fools Rogaine is an April First, six-hour, running, cycling and orienteering race on a broad variety of terrain.) Mind you, generally these are technical trails (but you don’t know until you’re on them) and it could be a good trial for the Sofrider as a trail bike. (Or it could be suicide.) So, I was beginning to put pressure on myself to “hurry up and get it” (again, no self-kindness there). I wanted to master the bike immediately, but I also understood that mastery takes time. I also know, when working with a high-performance design, it’s normal not to “get it” immediately. My progress was probably normal, but I still wanted to “get it” now.
Today, I decided to call Maria Parker and Dan Fallon, both Cruzbike racers, to ask them questions about handling, particularly on the slalom curves. I found they both have a lot of experience and are humble and honest — about what the bike does and what they do to control it.
Everyone does their own type of riding, so one needs to adapt advice from another’s environment to one’s own. In my case, I’m adapting techniques from road racing into an urban environment (and maybe onto trails).
In a video, I noticed Maria using a very slow cadence. For me, that seemed a sensible technique that would allow good coordination between the feet and hands. On the phone, she mentioned she also generally sits forward during turns. That could be seen on the video as well. While riding rear-wheel-drive bents on city roads, I too generally sit up when I need high maneuverability and vision — when turning, at intersections, changing lanes — so I can imagine this. I’ll have to play with that on a Cruzbike.
Dan Fallon has raced both rear-wheel-drive bents as well as front-wheel-drive moving-bottom-bracket recumbents and seems to have thought a lot about the similarities and differences. His stable of Cruzbikes includes a Vendetta, Silvio and Sofrider, by the way, so clearly this guy is a believer. He also owns (or used to own) a Bachetta Ti Aero, but he has now gone Cruzbike.
Dan trains in a mountainous area, so he has a lot of experience with the Cruzbike on the ups, the downs and the flats, including incredibly long and high speed downs and equally long up-hill grinds. A key insight he gave me was that the Cruzbike can get twitchy at high speeds, like above 50 mph or so, as it reacts to imperfections in the road or from cross-winds. His preference is to hold back the bike on the long downhills. (The “prudent individual” will say this sounds obvious, but, in the moment, it can be easy to forget.) While he backs off on the downs, he hammers on the ups. The result is an excellent overall time. This may run counter to some bent-riders’ temptation to take the downs at maximum speed (because though speed is dangerous, speed is also fun), but then go slow on the ups. I interpreted his words mainly as a comment on strategy. To use the Cruzbike design’s advantages, apply your energy on the climbs.
This made sense to me and illuminated how the Cruzbike can deliver very good overall times. One’s average time can be very good, though one’s “maximum” speed may be lower compared to a bent that feels smoother at high speeds. People should realize that I’m a cautious rider, and what I got from the conversation is that the Cruzbike may not be a bike I would want to take at high downhill speeds. It’s a bike that climbs quickly and handles the flats as fast as I would want to take them.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT SAFETY: To the everyday, mortal rider like me: do not attempt to ride any bike at the high speeds taken by skilled racers like Maria and Dan or other pro racers. (And do not attempt to ride any bike at the speeds easily driven by cars.) Not only do racers have exceptional gifts, skills, strength, experience, and training, they may also be taking exceptional risks in order to achieve wins or set records. Furthermore, their bikes may be customized for their use. Personally, when I talk to riders about buying bikes, I strongly dislike it when the conversation turns to speed because, simply, speed is dangerous and speed maims and kills. But also, speed is about you, the rider, and your capabilities. Interestingly, when I speak with racers about bikes, we’re rarely talking about speed as much as handling and power/force transfer.
I’m saying that because it’s the right thing to say. It’s also a “cover your ass” statement. Most bent riders are going to go out and ride at the speed of cars anyway and brag about it on Bent Rider Online. I’ll say it one last time: ride at safe speeds.
Anyway.
Dan had stories that supported my belief that this could be a good trail bike. He finds it’s superb in situations where you need to pick your path because the design allows you to see the contact point of the front, drive wheel. When a rear drive-wheel slips, you can’t see why. Good point.
Amusingly enough, he also experienced the intense concentration I felt I needed on the Cruzbike. He assured me that this is only at the beginning and, after a while, the bike feels natural. He no longer gives it a second thought. I was glad to hear that. He recommended that I ride only the Cruzbike, and nothing else for a while, if possible. This is what he did. It could hasten my skill development.
A specific suggestion he made, for technique, was always to increase wattage (force) gradually at the pedals. He finds that quick speed increases throw the bike off balance. One of the drills I give people, when teaching them to ride a bent, is to start with a strong first push, and we’ll do this several times in a row. Meanwhile, on the Cruzbike, it was always at the start, when I had just pulled the bike off the wall, that I had the most trouble. I’d get on it and attempt to get going with a good strong kick. Here, that doesn’t work. With the Cruzbike, you need to start slowly, and increase speed slowly.
Well, that’s the news from the “Cruzbike learning center.” I’m still thumbs-up about it and maybe even more so after speaking with Maria and Dan. Stay tuned to see if ultimately I ride it in the April 1 Fool’s Rogaine adventure race. That’ll require me not only to feel comfortable on the Cruz., but also to feel comfortable with my MTB skills in a bike orienteering format. It’s more than just ordinary riding. We’ll see how my training goes.
Stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson
If you are interested in sending an email to encourage your Congresswoman or Congressman to support a bicycle-friendly transportation bill, you can find the link here:http://www.capwiz.com/lab/issues/alert/?alertid=60929976&type=TA
The bill reverses 20 years of progress by:
– destroying Transportation Enhancements by making it optional;
– repealing the Safe Routes to School program, reversing years of progress in creating safe ways for kids to walk and ride bicycles to school;
– allowing states to build bridges without safe access for pedestrians and bicycles;
– eliminating bicycle and pedestrian coordinators in state DOTs; and
– eliminating language that insures that rumble strips “do not adversely affect the safety or mobility of bicyclists, pedestrians or the disabled.”
On Thursday, the House Transportation and Infrastructure (T&I) Committee will mark-up the bill and Representatives Petri (R-WI) and Johnson (R-IL) will sponsor an amendment that restores dedicated funding for Transportation Enhancements and Safe Routes to School. Representatives Petri and Johnson can only be successful if everyone with a stake in safe sidewalks, crosswalks, and bikeways contacts their representative today.
Stay in touch by visiting NYBC and bikeleague.org and americabikes.org for background and breaking news.
NYBC Membership Drive 2012Members are the heart and soul of NYBC! We have set an exciting goal to grow to 1000 members by the end of 2012. Response to our initial member appeal was phenomenal! NYBC’s continued success can only be assured by the power that comes from numbers. The larger our membership, the louder our voice. We need you to join us now.
The New NYBC website
NYBC’s enhanced website is the “go-to” resource for bicycle advocacy. Visit www.nybc.net for updated resources, news and tools.
Some key features of the new website include:
– News Feed for the latest bicycle developments
– Find resources and tools to make your community bike friendly in our Bike Advocacy Toolkit
Copyright © 2012 New York Bicycling Coalition, All rights reserved.
# # #
Stay healthy,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson
Note that David is riding a Cruzbike Sofrider (version V2). For pannier racks, he’s using Axiom front racks custom-attached to his bike. Since the current version of the Sofrider doesn’t readily take underseat racks, that seems to be the best solution.
Julie rides a Cruzbike Quest. Photos (buried in the blog) show it fitted with racks and bags.
All in all, an inspiring bit of “keeping it simple” and “Doing It Yourself” and “just getting out and seeing the world.”
Best,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson
Warmer feet for recumbent riders.

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U.S. Marine Sgt. Jose Gonzales and retired Marine Cpl. Travis Greene push through snow flurries during the 10-kilometer recumbent bike portion of the Warrior Games, May 13, 2010, at the U.S. Air Force Academy in Colorado Springs, Colo. Photographer: Senior Airman Christopher Griffin. (I, Robert, had nothing to do with this photo or race. I just think it looks like a great moment in sports.) |
I don’t know if there’s a Facebook page dedicated to it, but I would like to declare that I’m a “fan” of warm feet. On cold winter rides, such a very strong preference can be problematic, especially on a recumbent bike where one pedals soles-of-the-feet-first into frigid temps, made still colder by windchill. While winter temperatures alone can make your feet cold, while bicycling, the windchill makes it bite that much more, whether it’s at your feet, your hands, or your ears.
The problem is made worse by cleats like Shimano SPDs or Crank Brothers because the metal cleat in the bottom of your shoe conducts cold into your shoe. This is a good reason to abstain from cleats during the winter. Winter riders may also be interested in this blog entry, illustrated by Mike Clelland, where we discuss ways to stay warm when the heat is off. Among the important points are that you must keep your insulating layers dry and it is crucial to avoid tight and constricting clothing. These last cause a loss of circulation. That loss in circulation, however slight, will make you colder. Also, dress in layers, not only so you can remove clothes as you get warm, but also because warm air gets sandwiched in the layers.
In my time as a recumbent rider, here are some of the solutions I’ve tried.
Insulated shoe insole: $20
Recommended.
An easy way to make your biking shoes warmer is to replace the standard insole — this is the insert that goes between the bottom of your sock and the hard sole of the shoe — with an insulating layer. This is particularly good for recumbent riders, as opposed to standard frame riders, because it protects the bottom of your foot from windchill. You can buy various inserts. I’ve seen them made of felt and 3M Thinsulate(TM).
Insulated shoe insole, Do It Yourself (“DIY”): 10 cents
I made a pair of insulated insoles by taking an old “ensolite” foam sleeping pad I no longer use for camping. Here’s how to do it. Take out the original insoles from your biking shoes. Place them on the pad. Trace around them with a pen. Cut out the shapes with an X-Acto knife. Stick them back in your shoes. Put them on and ride.
At first, the homemade insoles made my shoes tighter, but as I rode, they flattened out. The results were dramatic. For a cost of pennies, and 10 minutes of time, I created a pair of insulated biking shoes. If your original insoles have arch support that you don’t want to lose, you can try re-inserting the original insoles after the ensolite insoles have flattened out a bit. Pictures of the process follow.
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Trace the original insole, in pen, on the scrap of “ensolite” foam pad. |
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Use an X-Acto knife to cut out the shape. Insert it into the shoe. And voila, insulated bike shoes for recumbent riders. |
Bike shoes with thick wool socks: $25
This is my preferred solution if the temps are above 25F or so. Thick socks are warmer than thin socks, yes, but you can only go just so thick until you can no longer fit your feet into your shoes. I’ll add shoe covers, if necessary. Add a vapor barrier or neoprene sock and you’ve got a decent cold weather riding shoe.
Vapor barriers and plastic bags: $0.10-$45
Ultimately, this is one of the best all around solutions and it may work with your summer bike shoes.
When you’re active, whether riding or hiking, your feet sweat. That moisture then enters your insulating layer, whether that be socks or insulated shoes or boots. That moisture dramatically inhibits the power of your warm insulating layer, which means unprotected and cold feet. Vapor barriers work by preventing evaporated body moisture — sweat — from entering the insulating layer. You can buy commercial vapor barriers for your feet, which cost between $8 and $45 or so. Instead of commercial vapor barrier socks, you can also use plastic bags, and this isn’t the half-a** solution you might imagine; it works extremely well. Bread bags are particularly good, foot-sized, and hard-wearing, but I’ve also used light-weight bulk vegetable bags. The vapor barrier is worn as a first layer on your bare feet or over a thin liner sock of synthetic or wool. Next, put on your warm insulating layer and then your shoes or boots. If you expect the weather to be very cold or wet and you’re wearing non-waterproof shoes, you may also wish to put a second plastic bag between your insulating layer and your shoe. This keeps the insulating layer dry and also inhibits additional windchill effect. Some of us may be concerned about appearances, “I don’t want people seeing me with plastic bags under my SIDIs,” but who cares what others think. For one thing, you’re riding a recumbent; you’ve already decided you don’t care what others think. And other riders might be too cold to notice (or say anything about it). (Truth is, your feet are hanging out there in front of you. Everyone’s going to notice. Again, who cares.) A couple brands and links:
Warmlite (with extended explanation of how vapor barriers work)
RBH Designs
Integral Designs
The “Oware” blog entry about using neoprene socks and plastic bags as vapor barriers
Short video of plastic bag method: http://youtu.be/6ANjQEuekmE
Bicycle shoes with shoe covers: $30+
This works extremely well if you begin with vapor barriers. However, putting aside vapor barriers for a moment, let’s start with shoe covers: some are better and warmer than others. The good ones are, of course, more expensive. Neoprene shoe covers are the warmest, but, since they don’t breathe, use them with care. If you don’t use vapor barriers and then cover your entire shoe with a neoprene shoe cover, your foot’s sweat will almost certainly create a lot of moisture in the inner layers. If your feet then get cold in addition to sweaty, over a long ride you may develop immersion foot (trench foot). This can become a medical emergency, even without the trench.
However, if you start with vapor barriers, you can turn your favorite summer bike shoes into a capable pair of winter shoes. Start with a thin neoprene vapor barrier/sock. Put on your road shoes. Then add the neoprene shoe cover. If you can afford a second pair of shoes for winter, get them one or two sizes too large. Then, add a heavy wool sock over the neoprene vapor barrier before putting on your shoe. Add the neoprene shoe cover and your feet will be just as cozy as. There is a limit to this solution though. The neoprene covers that I’ve seen are mostly open on the bottom, leaving the sole of your shoe exposed to serious wind chill. So, while your feet will be warmer than they would be without the cover, at brutally cold temps, you’ll be better off with a shoe or boot that is insulated at the sole.
Winter cycling boots: $200+
Shimano and some other makers have nice insulated winter riding boots. Add a vapor barrier and warm socks and you’ll be good to some pretty low temps. Cover it all with a neoprene booty and you’re all the warmer. It’s still not as warm as low-temp Pac Boots and platform pedals, or warm socks/shoes and a fairing, but, as far as solutions, it’s the most don’t-I-look-like-a-cyclist-as-I-buy-a-muffin-at-Bunbury’s?
Bicycle shoes with cheap shoe covers that I’ve windproofed with duct tape: $30.02+
This works pretty well but it looks like crap. And the tape prevents the covers from stretching nicely over your shoes. But it works in an emergency. Apply the duct tape after you’ve put on the covers over your shoes.
Insulated winter hiking boots or running shoes: $130+
One of my preferred solutions when it’s below 25F. I have a pair of Keen 15-degree insulated hiking boots that are fairly light and make for good winter riding shoes. Add a vapor barrier, a chemical foot warmer and a thick wool sock and they’re about as warm as I need for winter rides in the New York City area. I’ll use a good, grippy pedal and I’m pleased as punch that I’m riding at all, given it’s the middle of winter. If you want insulated “cleatable” biking boots, they do exist, but I’ve never seen them in a local bike shop. The market must be too small. Find them via Google.
If you need insulated (non-cleated) boots or shoes for severely cold weather riding, search for the general category of “Pac Boot.” At this time, I’m recommending the brand “Baffin,” a Canadian company. They make a range of cold weather sports boots that are relatively light in weight, flexible, and extremely warm. Among the various models, they make a cold weather, low-top, sports shoe, “The Leader,” rated to -20C/-4F that would make a great riding shoe.
Chemical foot warmers: $1 each, for five hours of warmth.
Good emergency warmth. When it’s cold, I always carry a pair of chemical foot warmers that are good for about 5 hours of warmth. Thin enough to fit inside almost any biking shoe or boot, I’ll stick in warmers if my original solution proves not to be warm enough or if I’m out till evening and the temperature starts to drop. As for whether it’s better to put them on top of your toes, or under your foot, in the arch, I don’t know. I usually put them under the arch.
Neoprene toe covers inside your bike shoes: $20
Not recommended. For me, these worked better on a standard-frame bike, where my feet are traveling toe-first into the wind, rather than on a recumbent bike, where I need insulation on the bottom of my foot, but I rarely use my toe covers and have never really been happy with them.
Biking sandals or Crocs with multiple layers of thick socks: $30-$100
Crocks work surprisingly well if you don’t need clipless pedals, because the sole is so thick and insulating and the foam rubber grips the pedals well. Some folks swear by using biking sandals with heavy socks. I haven’t tried the sandals but I believe this would be a good solution.
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Terracycle “XT” fairing, in the spring. |
Front fairing or full fairing: $125+
Fairings are the ultimate cold-weather tool for recumbent riders and are possibly the classiest solution. A front fairing does a good job of keeping the windchill off your feet and the faster you go the better the wind-chill protection (and the greater the speed improvement). A full fairing is wonderful if you can fit one to your bike. The full fairing entirely blocks the wind and the heat generated by your working body warms the air inside. I’ve heard complaints that it can get too hot inside the fairing, even on a cold day, and this highlights the drawback: it’s hard to regulate the temperature in a full fairing unless there are vents. Personally, as a city dweller who sometimes puts his bike on public transit, I prefer to use a small front fairing — if I use one at all — like a Terracycle Windwrap XT because it doesn’t inhibit moving the bike around small spaces. A larger fairing can be unwieldy going in and out of buildings and on and off trains. Also, fairings are one of those things that are so beautiful when they’re brand new, that I’m concerned — too concerned, really — about scratching them when I move around the bike. …And a large fairing is easier to scratch than a small fairing. This is silly, I admit. A scratched fairing works just as well as a clear fairing and they’re not designed for you to look through (or at) anyway. I love seeing riders with old and beat up fairings who are able simply to enjoy the benefits without babying them.
Best,
Robert
————
Robert Matson
New York City Recumbent Supply
The Innovation Works, Inc.
copyright 2012 Robert Matson